The Indian Handloom Industry

The Indian Handloom Industry- A Story to tell:

The Past:

India was called the Jewel of the British Crown. While telling the story of Indian Independence
we often mention the Spices, for which the British, Portuguese, Dutch and many Western
Kingdoms were searching the route to India. In fact, One entire new continent of America was
discovered because of it. The name West Indies is also because of West’s eagerness to reach
India. But we often forget to mention the fine Indian handlooms they were awestruck to discover.
The Indian handloom has a history and story of its own!
The rich and vibrant history of India’s handloom industry is deeply intertwined with its cultural
heritage and economic prosperity. Renowned for its intricate designs, vibrant colours, and high-
quality fabrics, Indian handloom products such as muslin from Bengal, silk from Varanasi,
Pashmina from Kashmir, and cotton textiles from Gujarat were highly sought after across the
globe. India accounted for approximately 25% of the world’s textile trade during the early modern
period (1500-1700), according to historian Angus Maddison’s work on global economic history.
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I took you all too long back. Around the 1500s. Such Old is the history of Handloom sector in India. But
is the condition of the actual weavers and craftsmen good today? whose unmatched skill, patience, and
dedication transform simple yarns into timeless masterpieces that tell stories of generations.

The Richness:

In modern times, Banarasi of Uttar Pradesh, known for its intricate zari, Tant Saree of West
Bengal, featuring simple, elegant borders and artistic pallus with floral or paisley designs.
Kanjibaram of Tamil Nadu, renowned for its durability, vibrant colours, and gold thread work are
examples of the finest work of art and craftsmanship Indian handloom has to offer. In addition to
this, Assam’s regal Muga silk, Kashmir’s luxurious Pashmina, Odisha’s vibrant Sambalpuri,
Bengal’s intricate Baluchari, Gujarat’s vivid Bandhani, Kerala’s graceful Kasavu, Madhya
Pradesh’s delicate Chanderi, and Bihar’s refined Tussar silk…each saree narrates a unique story
of artistry and tradition.

The Reality:

You might be thinking that in such a case,
the Indian weavers are flourishing!
Incorrect!!
Unfortunately, today, low wage and
exploitation, lack of direct market access,
direct competition from cheap-machine
made products and persistent poverty is
driving the younger generations away from
the trade, threatening the industry’s
survival. According to the Fourth All India
Handloom Census (2019-2020), the number
of handloom weavers decreased by
approximately 33%, totalling around 4.33
million individuals.
Most weavers earn a meagre wage for their labor-intensive work due to middlemen exploiting
them and paying far less than fair prices which is further giving rise to debt and poverty. Financial
instability is forcing many weavers to fall into debt traps from informal money lenders which is
further increasing their misery. The unavailability and high cost of quality raw materials like cotton,
silk, and dyes and the involvement of middle men make it difficult for weavers to sustain
production. The Government have a lot of schemes which are meant to support them but many
weavers are unaware of them or unable to access the benefits due to bureaucratic hurdles.
Insufficient promotion of handloom products on global platforms also limits the industry’s potential.

The Hope:

The Handloom industry is a multibillion
$ industry world wide. According to
Fortune Business Insights report the
Global Handloom industry is expected
to grow from $7.7 Billion in 2023 to a
$13.68 Billion by 2030 at a compound
annual growth rate(CAGR) of 8.41%.
India holds a significant share of the
global handloom industry, estimated
to account for about 95% of the
world’s handwoven fabrics. This
remarkable dominance underscores
India’s position as a global leader in
the handloom sector. Thus it is clearly
understood that the potential of
handloom in India is massive,
hence, if the weavers are given proper
visibility towards the direct to customer facility and fair pricing, the scope for their financial and
professional stability is massive.
Indian handloom startups, today, are working towards this goal. The Indian e-commerce
ecosystem currently accounts for about 5% of the saree industry, translating to approximately
₹4,000 crore (around $533 million). These companies are transforming the handloom business by
directly collaborating with the weavers, cutting the cost of middlemen, which in turn is increasing
the profit margins for both the weavers the brands. Brands like Suta, an ethnic wear startup
reported a 33% increase in operating revenue, reaching ₹75 crore (approximately $10 million) in
the fiscal year ending March 31, 2024 as per Economic Times report.
One such budding startup, Daiveya Sarees, has recently launched
their collection of ethnic, cotton handloom sarees. Rooted in
authenticity, sustainability, and a keen eye for quality, Daiveya is a
reflection of its founder’s journey—During her years in London, amidst
the city’s cosmopolitan vibe, Priya realised how sarees could be a
bridge between tradition and modernity. Inspired by the idea of
making sarees accessible to women across the globe as well as lifting
the country’s at risk weavers, she embarked on a journey to create a
brand that marries the old-world charm of handwoven textiles with the
convenience of online shopping. A blend of precision and artistry, it’s a
celebration of India’s rich textile heritage, crafted to fit seamlessly into
today’s fast-paced lives.Through Daiveya, she invites you to embrace the timeless beauty of
sarees, to rediscover stories woven into every thread and to make these elegant drapes a part of
your cherished moments. The collection reflects her vision: to offer sarees that are luxurious yet
affordable, perfect for the contemporary woman who values elegance and tradition. From a world
of codes to a world of weaves—this is more than a brand; it’s a journey of passion and purpose.
The Future:
With efforts like these and many more, like state and union government subsidies, government
welfare schemes and building strong infrastructure to simplify the production to customer pipeline
can not only boost the sector and improve
the condition of the poor and at risk Indian
weavers but also encourage the modern
generation to learn this ancient Indian skill
which will ultimately save this skill from
dying and perishing in the sands of time.
Looking ahead, the prospects for India’s
handloom industry are bright if it embraces
innovation and modernisation without
losing its authenticity. Investments in skill
development, market access, and digital
integration can empower millions of
artisans and attract younger generations to
this timeless craft. By focusing on quality,
sustainability, and global branding, the
handloom sector can strengthen its
competitive edge, contributing significantly to India’s economy and cultural identity. With strategic
efforts, the Indian handloom industry has the potential to not only reclaim its historical
prominence but also lead the global market as a symbol of artistry and tradition.

Author:

Souvik Mukherjee

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